▼ Leveling Systems · Technical Guide
HWH 725 Leveling System: The Complete Troubleshooting Guide
Everything you need to diagnose, fix, and maintain the most popular automatic hydraulic leveling system in modern RVing.
If your RV has an automatic hydraulic leveling system, there’s a good chance it’s an HWH 725 series. It’s the system of choice for dozens of major motorhome brands, and with good reason — it’s reliable, powerful, and genuinely easy to use. But even the best systems develop faults. This guide walks you through what the 725 series is, which RVs it’s fitted to, and exactly how to troubleshoot the most common issues yourself before calling a technician.
What is the HWH 725 Leveling System?
The HWH 725 — often referred to as the “725 Single Step” — is the flagship computerized hydraulic leveling system made by HWH Corporation, a family-owned manufacturer based in Moscow, Iowa. Founded in 1967, HWH spent its early years making hydraulic components for agricultural giants like John Deere and Caterpillar before turning its attention to the RV market. The 725 series represents the most advanced generation of their hydraulic leveling lineup.
Unlike older HWH generations (such as the 500, 510, 610, or 625 series), the 725 is a true single-step automatic system. You press one button — AUTO LEVEL — and the system does the rest. It reads the vehicle’s level sensors, calculates which jacks to extend, and brings your coach to within a very tight tolerance automatically.
The system operates on a BI-AXIS principle, meaning it always moves two jacks simultaneously — either both front jacks or both rear jacks — rather than extending individual corners independently. This prevents torsional stress on the coach frame, which protects the structure and keeps doors, cabinets, and slideouts functioning properly after deployment.
The 725 uses a computerized touch panel (usually floor-mounted near the driver’s seat, with an optional dash bezel) connected to an I/O module, a hydraulic pump unit, and either straight-acting or kick-down jacks depending on the chassis configuration. Newer 725 variants also introduced double-acting jacks — meaning they extend and retract under hydraulic power, rather than relying on springs for retraction.
Which RVs Use the HWH 725?
The 725 series is fitted across an enormous range of RV types and chassis configurations, both as original equipment from the factory and as an aftermarket upgrade. Here is a breakdown of where you’re most likely to encounter it.
Why the HWH 725 Became the Industry Standard
One-button simplicity. Previous HWH systems required managing multiple steps. The 725 distilled decades of refinement into a single AUTO LEVEL button press — a genuine game-changer for less technical RV owners.
Frame-protecting BI-AXIS design. By always moving front or rear jack pairs together, the system prevents the coach from being twisted on its axis. This protects slideout mechanisms, cabinet doors, and the structural integrity of the coach long-term.
Pump protection built in. If the pump runs cumulatively for 3 minutes, the system locks out to prevent overheating. Hitting the lockout is also a diagnostic signal — something is preventing the jacks from reaching their target position.
In-house manufacturing. HWH designs, manufactures, and assembles approximately 99% of their components at their Iowa facility, meaning tight quality control and consistent parts availability.
Broad chassis compatibility. Each 725 kit is matched to the exact vehicle — jack placement, stroke length, and lifting capacity are calculated for your RV’s actual weight distribution.
Before You Start Troubleshooting
Before diving into component-level diagnostics, run through this pre-check list. The majority of 725 failures are caused by one of these simple conditions.
- Park brake is fully set — the 725 will not activate without a park brake signal
- Ignition is in the correct position (on, not accessory)
- Battery voltage is adequate — low voltage causes erratic behavior
- Hydraulic fluid level is within the operating range on the reservoir
- All slides are in the correct position (jacks first, then slides)
- No pump protection lockout is active — turn ignition off, press CANCEL, wait 30 seconds
- The system hasn’t been confused by a partial operation — power cycle it completely if in doubt
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
Likely causes: park brake signal missing, blown fuse, battery/ground issue, pump protection lockout, control panel communication fault.
- Confirm the park brake is fully set. This is the single most common cause of a completely unresponsive system.
- Check the ignition position. The touch panel should illuminate when the ignition is on.
- Inspect the main fuses on the pump power unit. There are typically five plug-in fuses behind a cover on the power control box. Pull each one, check for continuity, and replace any blown fuses with the correct amperage.
- Look for a tripped breaker on the chassis rail — there may be a relay on the driver or passenger side chassis rail that has tripped but isn’t obviously visible. Reset any tripped breakers.
- Verify battery ground connections at the pump motor. HWH grounds the motor via its mounting to the reservoir — a poor ground causes the motor to fail to spin. Adding a dedicated 3-foot ground wire from a motor mounting bolt to a clean chassis ground resolves this permanently.
- Unplug the touch panel, wait 2 minutes, and plug it back in. This clears communication faults between the touch panel and the I/O module.
- If the pump protection lockout has engaged, turn ignition off, press CANCEL, and wait 30 seconds before retrying.
Likely causes: solenoid valve fault, wiring issue, debris or binding in the jack cylinder, low hydraulic fluid.
- Check hydraulic fluid level first. Low fluid can cause one or more jacks to fail while others work normally.
- Listen for the pump motor when you press AUTO LEVEL. If the pump runs but a specific jack doesn’t move, the issue is in that jack’s solenoid circuit rather than the pump.
- Check the I/O module LEDs. The yellow LEDs (typically numbered 1–4 for each jack solenoid circuit) should illuminate when that circuit is active. If a LED is not lighting, trace the wiring from the module to the solenoid for that jack.
- Test the solenoid manually. Some HWH solenoids have a small 1/4″ nut on the end cap that can be turned 4–5 turns to manually open the valve. Others have a T-handle or cam release. Do this only with the RV safely blocked.
- Inspect the jack rod and cylinder for corrosion, debris, or physical obstruction. Lubricate the jack rod with a silicone-based lubricant.
- Inspect all wiring for chafing, corrosion, or loose connectors. HWH systems use black wires throughout — probe with a voltmeter rather than relying on wire color.
Likely causes: solenoid fault, broken retract spring, wiring fault, loss of hydraulic pressure on power-retract systems.
- On spring-retract (single-acting) systems, check that the retract spring in the jack cylinder is intact. A broken spring means the jack has no mechanical force to return upward when hydraulic pressure is released.
- On double-acting (power-retract) systems, the retract solenoid circuit must be functional. Check the I/O module LEDs for retract solenoid activity.
- Release the park brake with the ignition on — the system is designed to retract jacks automatically when drive is selected. If this forces the jacks up, you have a solenoid or wiring issue, not a mechanical one.
- Manually open the retract solenoid at the manifold if you need to recover the coach. Refer to your system’s specific service manual for the correct manual override procedure.
- Inspect the jack for physical binding — mud, rocks, or debris wedged around the jack rod can prevent retraction even when hydraulics are functioning correctly.
Likely causes: dirty or faulty level sensor, calibration drift, site slope beyond system range.
- Clean the level sensors — dirty sensors are a surprisingly common cause of inaccurate auto-leveling. Use a dry cloth or compressed air; do not use solvents.
- Verify the site slope is within the system’s operating range. If you’re on extreme terrain, use leveling blocks under the low-side tires before deploying jacks.
- If the system consistently levels to the same incorrect position, the sensor may need recalibration. Consult your service manual for the zero-set calibration procedure — typically pressing STORE while on a known-level surface.
- Check that the sensor mounting bracket hasn’t been knocked out of alignment. The sensor must be mounted parallel to the coach floor.
- If a sensor has failed completely, the system may default to a fixed leveling sequence. Replace the faulty sensor and recalibrate.
Likely causes: loose fitting, worn jack cylinder seal, cracked hydraulic hose, manifold fitting failure.
- Do not operate the system if a significant leak is present — low fluid can cause pump cavitation and damage.
- Identify the leak source before adding fluid. Watch for drips at hose connections, fittings, and jack cylinder bases during a brief safe operation cycle.
- Tighten any loose fittings. Many minor leaks are simply fittings that have vibrated open over time.
- Inspect all hose runs for chafing against frame edges or heat sources. A worn hose must be replaced — do not attempt to patch hydraulic hose.
- Jack cylinder seal failure (weeping oil from around the extended rod) requires cylinder seal replacement — contact a qualified technician or HWH for a seal kit.
- Use only HWH-approved hydraulic fluid when topping up. Using the wrong fluid can damage seals.
The 725 touch panel uses LED indicator lights to communicate system status. Understanding what they mean is the fastest route to diagnosis.
- Jacks down warning light on in travel mode: One or more jacks are not fully retracted. Check each jack physically and verify the jack-down warning switch (magnetic reed switch) is functioning. A bad magnet in the jack or a failed switch will leave this light on permanently.
- No lights on touch panel with ignition on: Loss of power to the touch panel. Check the communication cable between the touch panel and I/O module, and verify the control circuit fuse.
- Link lights on I/O module not illuminated: Communication failure between the touch panel and I/O module. Check the cable, connectors, and both devices for damage.
- Pump runs continuously without reaching level: Either extreme slope, a jack unable to contact ground, or a failed 50 psi pressure switch on the manifold. This switch signals the I/O module that pressure is present before solenoids open.
The HWH controller can become confused if slides and jacks are operated simultaneously, or if the operating sequence is interrupted mid-cycle.
- Do not panic — this is recoverable in most cases without any hardware failure.
- Retract the slides first if they are extended. Close everything before attempting to operate jacks.
- Turn off the ignition completely and leave the system fully powered down for at least 10–30 minutes (overnight if possible).
- On restart, press CANCEL before attempting any operation to clear pending commands.
- Resume with the correct sequence: jacks first, then slides. Do not combine operations.
- If the shuttle valve has failed due to simultaneous operation, it will need professional replacement — the shuttle valve is located on the top of the hydraulic manifold.
■ Quick-Reference Symptom Chart
Preventive Maintenance Tips
The best troubleshooting is the kind you never have to do. These maintenance habits will keep your HWH 725 running reliably for years.
- 1Check hydraulic fluid level every 3–6 months and before extended trips. Use only HWH-approved fluid.
- 2Clean and inspect the jack rods at the same interval. Wipe the rods, remove grit, and apply a thin film of silicone lubricant. Never use oil-based lubricants — they attract dirt.
- 3Inspect all hydraulic hose runs annually for chafing, cracking, or proximity to heat sources. Pay particular attention to any hose near the exhaust system.
- 4Clean electrical connectors — particularly the fuse contacts at the power control box — with a wire brush or electrical contact cleaner once a year.
- 5Test the system before every camping season by extending and retracting all jacks in both auto and manual modes. Catching a developing fault in your driveway beats discovering it at a campsite.
- 6Check and clean all ground connections — particularly the pump motor ground — annually. Chassis grounds are notorious for developing resistance due to paint overspray, corrosion, or loose bolts.
- 7Always retract jacks before driving and use the STORE button so the system enters travel mode. Never assume the jacks are up without confirming the panel shows travel mode.
Frequently Asked Questions
When to Call HWH or a Qualified Technician
While many HWH 725 issues are diagnosable and fixable by a competent DIY owner, some problems are better left to professionals. Call HWH technical support or a qualified RV technician when:
- You have a confirmed hydraulic fluid leak that you cannot locate or stop
- A jack cylinder seal is weeping — this requires disassembly and a seal kit
- The shuttle valve has failed (typically after running jacks and slides simultaneously)
- The I/O module or touch panel appear to have failed electronically
- You are not comfortable working near pressurized hydraulic components
- The system passed all diagnostic checks but still does not function correctly
- You need to reconfigure the system after a major chassis repair or modification
The HWH 725 is, by almost any measure, the most capable and refined automatic leveling system available for RVs. When it works — which is most of the time — it’s effortless. When it doesn’t, the diagnostics are logical, the parts are available, and HWH’s own team is reachable by phone. That combination of quality and support is exactly why it remains the industry’s benchmark.
Always consult the service manual specific to your HWH system series before performing diagnostics or repairs. Manuals are available at hwhcorp.com. This guide is for informational purposes and does not replace manufacturer documentation or professional diagnosis.












There is not any info I could find about excess slope when it isn’t actually excess slope. There is nothing about how to check the level sensor or recalibrate.
I think it would be very helpful.
Your HWH unit has a sensing component that may need to be recalibrated. Get the rig perfectly level, open the sensing unit and inspect if its also reading perfectly level, it likely wont be due to the excessive slop message. Start there, if you tell me your coach I can help you find where the sensing unit is so you can check it